Leg 4Haltwhistle to Allendale

Start of Roof of England Walk Leg 4 – Haltwhistle to Allendale.

The first 10km of Leg 4 of the Roof of England Walk shares the route of the River Tyne Trail, from south of Haltwhistle to the village of Beltingham. The River Tyne Trail is a 217km route from Warden, in Northumberland, to the sea at Tynemouth.

Take care as you walk through the linear settlement of Plenmeller – the road can be busy. To the south of the small village there used to be a colliery – which peaked in production in the 1920s. Latterly coal was extracted through open cast methods on Plenmeller Common. The site closed in May 2002 and has since been restored to a more natural landscape.

Unthank Hall is Grade II listed manor house. It was owned by the Ridley family in the 16th century. Incorporating an ancient pele tower, it was extensively remodelled and extended in 1815 and 1865 and further altered 1900 and reduced in size in 1965. Pele towers are small, fortified keeps or tower houses, free-standing and built with defence in mind.

Willimoteswick Castle is a fortified manor house which was the seat of Sir Edward Blackett. The property remained in the Blackett family until the 20th century and is now a working farm. Bishop Ridley, who was burned at the stake by ‘bloody’ Queen Mary in 1555 was born here. It dates to the 16th century and is both a Scheduled Ancient Monument and Grade I listed.

At this point you can either continue to follow the lane or walk through this small Northumberland Wildlife Trust reserve. You will find deciduous woodland and scrub on river gravels. Heavy metal pollution from old mine spoil heaps has created a habitat which enables metal-loving plant species (metallophytes) to thrive – such as alpine penny-cress, spring sandwort and mountain pansy.

Allen Banks is a dramatic steep-sided gorge, created by the River Allen and has been looked after by the National Trust since 1942. It has extensive ancient and ornamental woodland. At 250 hectares it is the largest semi-natural woodland in Northumberland. It is known for its extensive carpets of wild garlic (also called ramsons) in the spring and early summer. Keep a look out for red squirrels.

This is a good place to find pebbles of different rocks. Local Carboniferous rocks, especially buff-coloured sandstone, are the most common. You can also find grey limestone and dark grey shale. If you are lucky, you may spot fossil plant remains or worm burrows in the sandstone, or white shelly fossils in the limestone.

These impressive cliffs are made up of beds of sandstone which were once layers of sand in Carboniferous deltas. Weathering has picked out features that give clues to conditions 320 million years ago. The beds high in the face are very thick and probably built up quickly. Lower layers show fine layering and some cross-bedding.

The woodland up to your right, known as Briarwood Banks, is an area of semi-natural ancient woodland, managed by Northumberland Wildlife Trust. Ash trees dominate but you will also see birch and oak. You might spot some overgrown ruins – this was part of an old industrial complex, possibly related to lead ore smelting in the 1680s.

Cross the River Allen at Plankey Mill using the arched footbridge. The buildings were originally an 18th century corn mill, they are built of local sandstone and are roofed with thin sandstone slabs.

High on a promontory above the path is the ruin of Staward Pele tower. It was originally built as a timber structure in 1316 by Antony de Lucy of Langley. The stone structure dates to 1326 and was built by Thomas de Featherstonehaugh. The ruins of the tower and its gatehouse are Grade II listed. Its setting, including medieval ditches, is a Scheduled Ancient Monument.

You are approaching the A686 – the main road between Haydon Bridge, in the Tyne Valley, and Alston. It is a fast and straight road at this point. Please take care crossing.

The small settlement of Catton was the end of the Hexham and Allendale branch of the North-Eastern Railway – 13 miles long and opened to passenger services in 1869. The original plan was to extend to Allenheads but this never came to pass. The main function of the line was to transport lead ore form the Blackett-owned lead mines in the Allen Valleys to Hexham for onward transport to Newcastle.

The East Allen is a fantastic upland river set within the North Pennines National Landscape. A survey in 2022 of a 70m stretch between Allendale and Allen Mill recorded almost 1,500 fish – sea trout, salmon, eels, and stone loach. The river also supports a healthy population of water voles – so much so that it was used as a donor site to reintroduce the mammal to Kielder Water and Forest Park.

In the late summer/autumn (particularly October and November) it is possible to see sea trout and salmon trying to jump the weir and run the fish pass. The best time is after a period of rain, especially early morning or evening. It is remarkable to think that these fish are returning from the North Sea to the river of their birth. The strongest fish can leap up to 3m over rapids and waterfalls.

To visit the historic Allen Smelt Mill turn right, cross the road bridge and immediately left. Lead mining once generated huge wealth for the East Allen Valley. In the 1850s the smelt mill here was the largest in the country, capable of processing over 2,000 tons of lead ore each year. The flues are the best preserved in England and led from here to chimneys over two miles away on Dryburn Moor.

The Roof of England Walk shares its route from Allen Bridge to Allendale with Isaac’s Tea Trail - a 58km circular walk through the North Pennines. It links Allendale, Nenthead and Alston – following in the footsteps of the legendary lead miner, tea seller and fund raiser, Isaac Holden. Isaac came from a line of West Allen miners but a downturn in the 1830s led to a career change.

Started in October 1855, the Blackett Level was to be a seven mile tunnel draining water from the Allenheads Mine. Shafts were sunk between here and Allenheads, and miners tunnelled towards each other deep below the surface. The tunnel never reached its destination – falling 2 miles short. It was abandoned in the early 20th century, the Mine had closed and the industry had largely collapsed.

Allendale is a former lead mining settlement. The handsome inns, shops and stone-built houses bear witness to the huge wealth generated through the industry in the 1800s. Visit the churchyard to see Isaac Holden’s memorial. The Allendale Tar Bar’ls festival on New Year’s Eve sees ‘guisers’ – local men – carrying barrels with flaming hot tar through the town with faces blackened by soot.

On the right as you walk up the hill into Allendale notice the small museum. It charts the history of classic Doctor Who and science fiction, as told through original props, costumes and published artwork.

Finish of Roof of England Walk Leg 4 – Haltwhistle to Allendale.