Leg 3Alston to Haltwhistle

Start of Roof of England Walk Leg 3 – Alston to Haltwhistle.

If you turn right here, you will be in the centre of Alston after walking for 400m. The town has buildings dating back to the 17th century, but its main expansion came in the mid-18th century when larger scale mining developed. Today Alston has a much smaller population than its peak in the 1840s, but it retains a strong identity in its historic buildings, small businesses, and active community.

The first 18km of Leg 3 of the Roof of England Walk route coincides with the Pennine Way. The trail starts in Edale, in the Peak District, and finishes 431km (268 miles) later at Kirk Yetholm, in the Scottish Borders. A quarter of the route is within the North Pennines National Landscape. The Pennine Way was Britain’s first National Trail, and in 2025 it marked its 60th anniversary.

The footbridge over the Gilderdale Burn marks the county boundary between Cumbria and Northumberland.

As you stand above Epiacum Roman Fort imagine being stationed here in Roman times, it must have felt a long way from Rome. The fort was probably built at about the same time as Hadrian’s Wall in the AD120s. Its purpose being to exercise control over lead and silver mining in the area. It has an unusual diamond-shaped layout and a series of well-preserved ramparts.

If you walk down through the Roman Fort and pick up the track down to the A689 you will find the Nook Farm Shop and Café. They are open most days but phone or check their Facebook page before walking down the hill.

If you are lucky, you might see trains on the narrow gauge, South Tynedale Railway which runs up and down the South Tyne Valley between Alston and Slaggyford. The original Haltwhisle to Alston Branch Line came into service on 17 November 1952 and ran until 1976.

You have been following the route of Isaac’s Tea Trail since Alston, as well as the Pennine Way. The routes diverge here though – with the Tea Trail heading east to cross Kirkhaugh Bridge, across the South Tyne, and up and over the hills, into the West Allen Valley.

You are walking on the route of the Maiden Way Roman Road. It is a 32km route which linked the Roman fort of Bravoniacum (Kirkby Thore), near Penrith with Magnis (Carvoran) on Hadrian’s Wall. Epiacum Roman Fort is halfway along the road. In effect it served as a shortcut for supplies destined for the central and eastern parts of the Wall.

Take care as you turn right onto the A689 and follow it into the centre of the small settlement of Slaggyford.

Slaggyford takes its name from the Old English for a muddy ford. The small village was served by the Alston Railway Line which ran between Haltwhistle and Alston between 1952 and 1976.

If you keep walking up the road for about 100m you will reach the narrow gauge South Tynedale Railway and Slaggyford Station. The line extension from Lintley to Slaggyford was completed in 2017 and, during the season, regular passenger services run to the village once again. At the station you will find toilets and the Little Buffet Car – both of which are usually open when trains are running.

The South Tyne Valley feels like a gloriously undiscovered place – the tumbling river fringed with ancient woods, leading the eye to the wide, open moorland beyond. In the summer months colourful hay meadows add to the flavour of the valley.

As you turn left and walk along the A689 (care) notice the impressive viaduct. This is the Burnstones viaduct, a Grade II listed structure. It was constructed by Sir George Barclay Bruce in 1852 to carry the Haltwhistle to Alston branch line, over the Thinhope Burn. It has six arches, with the most northerly one having a significant skew to carry the railway over the road.

As you make the climb up and across Lambley Common consider that you are still following the route of the Maiden Way Roman Road. After Roman rule came to a close in Britain the route would have been used as a drovers’ road. It was probably named after the Maiden Castle fort which guarded the Stainmore Pass, east of Brough.

Take care crossing over the A689, it can be fast and busy.

On the other side of this footbridge, over the Hartley Burn, the Roof of England Walk route parts company with the Pennine Way. Instead of turning left, bear right across the field.

As you cross over the River South Tyne if you glance to the right, you will see the impressive Featherstone Castle. It is a Grade I listed Gothic-style country mansion, with elements dating to the 13th century. The tallest tower is 14th century. The castle has its origins in the medieval period when the Featherstonehaugh family owned the manor of Featherstone.

On the other side of the footbridge over the River South Tyne turn left and join the route of the River Tyne Trail. The Roof of England Walk shares the same route for the rest of the leg. The River Tyne Trail is a 217km route from Warden, in Northumberland, to the sea at Tynemouth.

This distinctive, lopsided bridge dates to the 18th century. The single pointed arch is high above the River South Tyne, well above flood levels. It is Grade II listed.

The route follows a permissive footpath through North Woods. This is part of the Bellister Estate, which is owned and looked after by the National Trust. In May these woods are fragrant with flowering bluebells.

From the top of Bellister Bank you begin the decent to the market town of Haltwhistle. The town nestles beside the River South Tyne and occupies a stunning location between Northumberland National Park and the North Pennines National Landscape and Hadrian’s Wall is close by. It is also thought to be the geographical centre of Britain.

Finish of Roof of England Walk Leg 3 – Alston to Haltwhistle.